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Usually there is a full moon sometime this week. If the night is clear, the white snow combines with the full moon to light up the woods. You can walk anywhere without a flashlight. In fact, a flashlight seems to almost insult the natural light of the woods. Folks in the city never get to experience this totally natural light. They always have some kind of artificial light around them. The softly lit woods are an experience reserved totally for a place set apart from the city life. Don’t stay home and miss your chance to walk through this magical forest.
It seems like every week there is something new to experience in the winter woods, something that can only be found on the Trail. Until you have walked out into the middle of a frozen lake on a clear night, you have no idea how many stars there are in the sky. The Trail has no ambient light or smog from a city. All there is to light the sky is stars. The act of just looking up from the middle of the lake is guaranteed to take your breath away. If you know your constellations or bring a small chart with you, it’s great fun to locate everything.
In spite of all the variety of activities on the Trail during the winter, one of the most popular is still cross country skiing. A good part of the popularity comes from our almost guaranteed snow. Another part is the quality of our trails. Even though we do not have hundreds of skiers, the resort owners have top quality grooming equipment. The combination of perfect grooming and smaller crowds give skiers at any level a wonderful experience. Add to that luxury cabins and gourmet dining and it totals up to an unforgettable cross country ski experience.
The winter fishing season actually starts out January 3 rd with lake trout inside the BWCA. But if you would like a little easier access, this is the week that lake trout fishing opens on lakes outside the BWCA. You can snowmobile out to dozens of hot fishing spots, drill some holes and spend the day getting a suntan while you reel in tasty lake trout. It’s a combination that appeals to every fisherman or fisherwoman. Some of the resorts even have fish houses available if it gets a little windy on the lake. So mark your calendar to spend some time fishing on the Gunflint Trail this winter.
The Gunflint Trail is home to one of the most illusive mammals in this country – the timber wolf. Winter is when you have the best chance of encountering this wonderful animal. During the evening hours packs of wolves can be heard howling around almost every resort. The howling of wolves stirs emotions in us all that must date back thousands of years. Those who are a little less inhibited than others can howl back to the wolves. Sometimes they even answer! On the nice afternoons wolves can be seen sunning themselves or running across the lakes.
Years ago the Native Americans taught the white man to use snowshoes for traveling in this great country. For many people it is the perfect way to explore the snow-bound wilderness. Almost anyone can do it with a little practice. In fact, it’s almost like taking a walk in the woods. Just add a little bit more swing in your hips while walking along. You can go anywhere and are not dependent on groomed trails. It is very quiet and sometimes you can creep up on unsuspecting deer. Seeing a deer while snowshoeing through the forest is an unforgettable experience.
When February comes, residents of the Gunflint Trail take a deep breath. They know that the coldest days of winter are behind them. Now is the time when all we do is add snow to our base. It seems that every time the temperature gets above 15 degrees, we get more snow. Because most of us walk on shoveled paths or ski on groomed trails, it is easy to forget just how much snow has piled up. Take a minute and try to walk through some undisturbed snow without snowshoes. Pretty soon you will be up to your hips and still not touching the ground below.
One of the most beautiful sights in the northern sky is the aurora borealis or northern lights. We have all heard about them, but seeing them in the sky is quite impressive. The first hint of northern lights comes when you see what appear to be city lights where there is no city. Pretty soon the sky is alive with shooting streaks of colored lights. You may even see swirling lights across the sky. The combination of lights and motion is endless. Once again Mother Nature shows us that she doesn’t need lasers to put on a real light show.
One of the joys of visiting the Gunflint Trail in the winter is to see deer coming in for the corn that almost everyone seems to put out for them. Most of us have seen wild deer at various times but this is something different. To begin with, the number of deer coming in is unbelievable. Some places will get 30-40 deer a night! With this many deer, it is easy to see the pecking order of feeding. There is none of this women and children first. The big bucks are there to eat and they will push out everyone else until a bigger buck comes along. Mother Nature can be very harsh.
Deer are not the only animals regularly fed in the Northwoods. A bit of suet and some sunflower seeds will bring in an endless number of bickering birds. The most common ones include chickadees, Canadian jays, blue jays, hairy woodpeckers, downy woodpeckers, evening grosbeaks, purple finches, red poles, and nuthatches. And don’t forget the many squirrels working to find their way onto the bird feeder. Rarely is there a bird feeder that the squirrels can’t get onto. At the worst, squirrels have to contend themselves with eating seeds dropped on the ground.
About this time of year the first day of thaw comes. A single day when the temperature hits 35-degrees is enough to make the locals take their jackets off. Tourists think we’re crazy but the nice sunny day feels just wonderful after a winter of freezing temperatures. Another hint that summer may truly be coming occurs at the bases of trees. One day you notice that the snow around the trees is beginning to sink in toward the ground. There will still be plenty of cold days and snowstorms but for this one day, everyone knows that spring is on the way.
Snowmobiling is particularly nice on the Gunflint Trail about now. Other parts of the state have lost their trails but the ones on the Trail are still solid. The weather is simply gorgeous! There is not a finer way to spend the day than to wind along trails and across lakes on a snowmobile at this time of year. Speed is not a necessity. Take it a bit slower and look around. There may be a moose around the next corner. They like the packed trails too. Those moving specks down the lake might be a pack of wolves that have been sunning themselves.
An activity that sounds interesting to many people but is actually done by very few is winter camping. The warmer days of March are a good time to try this activity. No matter what kind of trip you plan, make sure that you have an experienced winter camper in your group. There are a lot more tricks to winter camping than to summer camping. It’s also best to plan clothing for a variety of weather conditions. But just like summer camping, remember this is not a mileage marathon. You’re in the woods to relax and see what’s around you.
By now it is obvious that spring is truly on the way. The ski trails show it in many ways. In the morning groomed trails are as hard as pavement. By afternoon the shadowed spots and sunny spots on the trails exhibit different characteristics. In the shadows are patches of granular snow called “corn snow.” The snow has crystallized into tiny bits of ice. It takes wax off skis in a very short time. Meanwhile the sunny spots are covered with wet heavy snow. It is very sticky and slow going. Be careful when you change from sun to shadow as the ski conditions change too.
Spring may be coming but there always has to be one last storm and it usually hits us in April. Just when you think we are finished, a big load of wet, heavy snow is dropped on the woods. In your head you know this snow going to melt quickly but in your heart it is a really heavy load. By this time of year even the most diehard winter lover has had enough. But a walk down any back road will remind you that even this time of year has enjoyable moments. Just getting a glimpse of a fat momma deer tells us that the cycle of life is moving on and spring will soon be here.
It’s time to stay off the iced-in lakes of the Gunflint Trail. Invisible springs and creeks are creating weak spots in the ice. Even locals don’t always know where the ice is safe. You can be on solid ice in one spot and a foot away is rotten unstable ice. The last thing you want to do is go through the ice. It is one of the most bone-chilling events anyone can ever experience. After a winter of solid ice, it’s time to renew your respect for the ice. Over the course of a few days you can watch the ice change but it’s best to do so from the safety of the shore.
It’s posy willow time! The first plant, shrub, or tree to change with the coming of spring is the posy willow. And the first one spotted each season is a joy. Everyone wants a couple twigs of posy willows to put in a vase. Of course, most of us never have a knife or shears when we first spot this harbinger of spring. The next problem is actually getting to the shrub. That normally involves wallowing in snow up to our hips just where we thought the bank was solid. It’s usually best to just enjoy posy willows from the comfort of the car during a spring afternoon drive.
Most of the snow is finally gone. A few spots that just have a northern exposure may still have a patch or two of snow. Unfortunately, there is not much green to replace the white snow. Even so, it’s a great time to get out and walk the woods. To begin with, you can see forever because there aren’t leaves to block your view. Also the air is so clean and fresh that you can hardly believe it. After spending the winter inside, stretching your legs on a vigorous walk is just what the doctor ordered. The walk will start to take off the couple extra pounds that appeared as if by magic over the winter.
This is the week of another great transformation in the land of lakes. The ice goes out! For several weeks we have watched the ice get darker and darker. Patches of open water have teased us where the creeks and rivers come in. The wind has moved the ice back and forth or else the wind has been still and the ice has just sat there. If you are close to shore, you can hear the ice tinkling in the wind. Finally, the right wind, the rotten ice, and the little open water combine in just the proper manner. In two days even the biggest lake is clear of ice and waves are lapping the shore again.
It’s time for a special Minnesota event – the opening of the fishing season. All winter long fishermen have been waiting. Palates are salivating for the taste of fresh fried walleye. Boats and motors have long been readied. Rods are cleaned and reels have new line on them. On Friday night about dusk a parade of boats take off for the walleye hot spots. It seems as if midnight will never come. When it does, thousands of lines and lures hit the water. Nighttime is for fishing walleyes and the afternoons are for fishing lake trout. There is no time for sleeping. After all, the fishing season is open!
Birds fill the air. Some are here to stay for the summer while others are moving further north. Juncoes and snow buntings have already passed through. Eagles and sea gulls came to their summer homes ten days ago. The first robin is spotted. A loon is heard calling. All the birds are anxious to find a little bit of food. Bird feeders empty in a day. Red poles and purple finches bicker over who gets to the feeder first. The bright goldfinches attract your eye as they come into the feeder. Bird books come out all over to re-identify some of the more elusive species.
It rained all day yesterday and last night. Looking across the lake this morning there seems to be a hint of green in the trees tops. A second sleepy look says there really is some green. The warm gentle rain has convinced the aspens to release their leaves. It looks like green fuzz this first day but soon the light green color of new leaves will confirm that spring is truly here. Other trees will soon follow suit and let their leaves pop out. But for today it is enough to see the green of aspen leaves. We have waited a long time to welcome these leaves for another season on the Trail.
All of a sudden more animals are showing up. Ground hogs scurry along the side of the road. Chipmunks woke up several weeks ago but now they are everywhere. A fox wanders through the yard casually looking for a meal. Pairs of ducks glide by on the waterfront. Does and mother moose are in seclusion bringing forth their newborn babies. With a little luck you’ll get a quick glimpse of one of the young. Perhaps a mother bear and her cub will come in. Give Mama plenty of room because you don’t want to get between her and her cub.
This week is the beginning of the short frost-free growing season. Gardeners up and down the Trail wait for the first of June as that magic date when there will be no more frosts until sometime in September. No matter how warm May days have been and how tempting it is to plant, there is always a chance of frost until now. Particularly fragile plants such as basil, marigolds, impatiens, and tomatoes can be killed if left unprotected during a frost at night. This is the week that all the frustrated Trail gardeners get out and plant with assurance.
Every year the smallmouth bass spawn for a two-week period beginning at this time. Their preferred spawning areas are washed gravel beds in about 2-4 feet of water. After spawning, the fish protect their beds and are easily attracted by a variety of lures. Pound for pound there is no better fighting fish in the Northwoods than the smallies. When one of these fighters hits your line, you know there’s a fish on. It’s particularly fun for young children who feel a real sense of accomplishment when they land their first smallmouth bass.
Shallow water fishing for lake trout starts to slow down about now. Of all our fish, lake trout are most sensitive to water temperature. They really like that 50-degree water. When the sun warms the northern lakes, the lake trout live in deeper and deeper waters as they search for cool temperatures. Years ago before the development of modern non-stretching fish line, this was the week heavy rods with copper line came out of storage. This heavy equipment would be used to fish the deep waters for lake trout until cooler fall temperatures bring the fish into shallow waters.
The summer equinox or longest day of the year occurs on June 21 st. Daylight in the Northwoods comes as early at 4:30 a.m. and full dark is not until around 10:00 p.m. Even people from the Twin Cities are surprised at how long our summer days are. They forget that the 300-mile drive from Minneapolis is almost all due north. The long summer days are balanced by the very short winter days. One advantage to being so far north is that our twilights last a long time. The perfect end to a Northwoods day is to sit beside a lake watching the sunset and listening to the loons.
When lilacs bloom on the Trail, it’s time to harvest morel mushrooms. There have always been morel mushrooms in the woods. As the Forest Service has conducted controlled burns in the wake of the 1999 Blowdown, their fires have generated an abundance of morels. Wear your oldest clothes and be prepared to gather soot as well as morels. Because morels are very distinctive and have no dangerous look-alikes, even the novice can quickly learn to pick them in safety. Drying or freezing are the preferred way to preserve morels. But be sure to plan on fried mushrooms for dinner after the first pick.
One of the best ways to celebrate Independence Day on the Trail is to go looking for wild strawberries. Our berries are no bigger that the end of your little finger but they offer a huge taste sensation. Along the road you will see determined people crawling the ditches to get enough berries for a few jars of jam. The payoff comes with the first taste of homemade wild strawberry jam. One taste and you will never enjoy store-bought jam again. Only friends and family on the A-list receive gifts of this jam in their Christmas stockings.
This week quietly heralds in a special kind of walleye fishing. It’s the time when knowledgeable fishermen start catching those trophy walleyes that the Trail is so well known for. Admittedly they don’t eat as well as their smaller cousins, but landing a lunker walleye is something fishermen dream about. Our environmentally-aware fisherman have learned to release these lunkers back into the lakes where they will spawn again and again to enrich the fish population for years to come. Be sure to bring along your camera to record the catch.
A Gunflint Trail tradition happens this week. For more than 25 years on Wednesday night of this week summer residents of the Gunflint Trail conduct canoe races at Gunflint Lodge. The entire community gathers for a neighborhood party to support the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department, which receives all proceeds. Homemade food is served for dinner with plenty of dessert choices. Canoe races take place along the waterfront. The announcer constantly gives away prizes during an endless raffle. The evening closes with a special drawing for a new Winona canoe.
Visitors and residents all head to Grand Marais this week for the annual Lions Club Fishermen’s Picnic on Thursday through Sunday. The Crazy Days sales, kids’ carnival rides, street dances, and a raffle for $10,000 attract people of every age. A favorite activity for those in the know is the Friends of the Library annual used book sale in the community center. All in all, here is nothing better than a small town celebration! By the end of the week even the adults have trouble staying awake for the ending fireworks display.
Raspberries are ripe! Everyone is off to their favorite spot to pick these unbelievable berries. Usually you meet all the neighbors at your secret spot. The picking is easy and the rewards are great. After the first afternoon’s pick, it’s tempting to sit down and eat the fresh berries. There will be plenty more berries for jam in the days to come. Sitting in front of a huge bowl is the time to remember buying one cup of berries last winter for $3.50 in the grocery store. Your huge bowl of fresh raspberries makes you feel truly rich.
By now the blueberry picking is starting to slow down. Take some time this week to pick some before the season is over. The sweet berries of the boreal forest are guaranteed to brighten up your winter days when they are turned into blueberry pancakes and muffins. It’s easy to freeze the blueberries and have a bag of them ready to enhance a winter meal. And this doesn’t even take in account the fun of picking. You know – a handful for the basket and a handful for your mouth. Of course, your blue tongue explains to everyone why the basket isn’t full.
With all the activities of summer on the Gunflint Trail, this is the week to slow down for just a day. Pack a picnic lunch and hike into your favorite overlook. Or perhaps you just want to paddle along the shore until there is a quiet little cove that beckons you for lunch. Summer is coming to an end. It’s time to take a moment and absorb the Northwoods. Memorize the play between wind and water. Let your ear record the rustling leaves. Your eyes photograph a loon gliding by. The day will remain with you to be savored throughout the coming winter.
Driving down the Trail, this is the week you are suddenly surprised to notice that the plants along the road are starting to turn color. With a shock it hits you that summer is almost over. You notice for the first time that the night air has a hint of coolness and a sweatshirt feels good. The lake water isn’t quite as warm as last week. The days are getting shorter. The garden looks tired and picked over. Even the mosquitoes have left. After a hot summer, the subtle changes are welcome. It’s time for a new season and for us to move along with the change.
School is going to start. Let’s try to get the family in woods for a couple more days. The kids need to run up the trail to the high cliffs one more time. There may be a few lingering blueberries left on the bushes down the road. It’s time for one more fish fry with walleyes caught just that day. Warm, sunny days on the lake seem especially precious. You need to hear water coming down the rapids one more time. Suddenly everyone is in a hurry to do all those things they promised themselves to do this summer for sure.
Labor Day kicks off more than school. It also kicks off the fall color season. Not so many years ago the woods were empty the day after Labor Day. We’ve gotten smarter. When the maples turn red, it’s time to drink in the fall colors that are coming over the next few weeks. During August only the smaller plants were turning color. Now the brilliant reds of the maples usher in the most colorful season in the Northwoods. No one wants to miss this special time to explore the many trails along the Gunflint. So don’t sit around. Get out and take a hike!
The partridge season opens on Saturday. Many residents go partridge hunting just for the joy of being in the woods. When you live on the Trail, you always seem to need an excuse to just take a walk in the woods. Partridge hunting is the fall excuse. The birds themselves are easy to hunt and make a tasty fall dinner with wild rice and baked acorn squash. Most of us are meat hunters and will shoot them on the ground. Once the birds start to run, without a dog helping you, they can be really difficult to spot again. Birds that have already escaped a hunter that fall are particularly skittish.
We are really into fall color season. The aspens and birch are turning. Soon the ash and tamarack will be in full color. Everyone hopes for calm weather during this period. If it stays calm, the leaves will remain on the trees for 10-14 days. When the wind comes again, it is like the trees are raining leaves. In a couple of days the trees are bare. But if the leaves stay on, you can have a brilliant mixture of gold leaves and green pine needles. Some of the back roads with good size stands of aspen seem to glow with the masses of yellow colored leaves.
At the end of the month the lake trout fishing season closes. Some years during this last week the lakes have cooled off enough so that the trout are back in shallow waters. They come up to the 50-degree water in preparation for spawning later in the fall. When they are in the shallows like this, the fishing is fast and fun. On a clear day you can look down and see the fish bite on your bait. It is a great opportunity to put some of these rich eating fish in the freezer for the coming winter months. Grilled fillets or a baked stuffed whole trout are super eating in January! The temperatures have been in the 70’s during the day and 60’s a night. We can’t believe how warm it is. Fall color is nearing it’s peak.
Fall is time for the moose to enter the rutting season. Throughout the forest the bulls are looking around for a lady and competing with other bulls for her affections. A simple homemade moose call can bring in bulls for photography and just plain enjoyment. It is exciting to see the moose come in but you have to be careful. Sometimes the moose come from a direction that you hadn’t anticipated. Those big old animals can sneak up from your backside and pretty soon they are closer to your car than you are. It is not a comfortable position to be in. Still no frost. There was a miserable three-day east wind storm with rain, lots of wind, and cooling temperatures. The leaves were really blown of the trees. A few weak trees were blown down too.
Migrating birds are really on the move now. Juncoes and snow buntings are coming through from their summer in the north and going to their southern winter homes. Even though the Trail is not on the major fly routes, you can still look up and see the great v’s of migrating geese. Loons leave about now. Mallards that are regularly fed on the lakeshore will stay around until the food stops. Since they are so tame after a summer of feeding, we like to think that keeping them through the hunting season saves a few from hunters further to the south.
It is time for Indian summer. Usually by this time of year we have had some freezing nights and maybe a few miserable days of snow and rain combined or a few inches of snow. Now it is the time to get a little break in the weather. The snow melts. The sun comes out and warms us up. There is nothing better than hiking through the woods right now. The leaves may be down but kicking your way through a big pile of leaves offers another kind of fall fun. Also with bare branches, it’s easier to see game in the woods and the little hidden creeks and waterfalls.
One of these weeks reality hits us all. Winter truly is coming. The good weather will not last forever. Now is when we have to get those last outdoor chores finished in preparation for winter weather. Maybe it’s an outbuilding that has to be drained or a boat and motor put away for another year. Then there is always raking and wood splitting. You need to stack that woodpile so that it will be nice and handy when winter hits. So while the weather is nice, this is the week to finish up the outside work. It’s a lot more fun now than in wet, sleeting rain.
Deer season opens this week. While the anticipation of a venison dinner is wonderful, any true hunter will tell you that there is a lot more to it than just shooting the animal. Being out in the woods and observing what is happening all around you is an experience in itself. Many who don’t hunt have never spent two or three or four hours in one spot just watching life in the woods happen around you. All of us would enjoy the woods a lot more if we looked at them with a hunter’s eyes. It’s like entering another world that is entirely different from the one we normally live in.
Some time around now we will be getting the first snow that sticks with us until next spring. Even for those who don’t particularly enjoy snow, this first snowfall is a magical time of year. Walking through the barren trees as white snowflakes glide down to cover them is an experience not to be missed. It’s one of those times when the forest is transformed in a few hours time. All of a sudden there is a completely new look to the woods. What was gray and drab is now white and sparkling. It’s all you can do to not start searching for your cross country skis and snowshoes.
In November when the winds start to blow, there is always a day that the cabin never seems to warm up. It’s time for a fire in the fireplace. You already have your wood stacked and ready. In fact, right next to the fireplace is a load of kindling, paper and firewood. With just a little stacking of these three items and one match (if you have done a good job stacking), the living room is filled with the cheery glow of dancing flames. Just watching them warms you up. Later on when the glowing coals have accumulated, heat will pour out and warm every corner in the cabin.
Like everywhere in this country, Thanksgiving week is when we remember how truly blessed our lives are. Time on the Trail reminds us of the natural beauty that is found throughout the world. Nature has a way of soothing our worries away. She tells us that life is a series of renewals and each one brings its own beauty and pleasures. The woods offer you a small place to retreat and renew your life. A few days on Trail let you take a walk in the woods and absorb the stillness and peace. Giving thanks for all you have makes it easier to face your problems.
The icing over of lakes is one of those transforming times of the year. After eight months of open water, you wake up one morning to a sheet of sparkling ice across the lake. You knew it was going to be a cold, still night but the iced over lake is still a surprise. Maybe a bay or two had frozen the other day, but now ice is everywhere. The sound of lapping waves is replaced with creaking ice. Just looking at the clear ice makes it hard to remember the blue waves of summer. You know the waves are just resting beneath the ice but it is hard to even imagine open water.
Gunflint Lake froze today. It froze on 12/17 in 2004. In the morning the lake was a calm as glass. Throughout the day we could see various parts of the lake skim over with ice. Every time you look a different section was skimmed over. By evening the lake was frozen in for this winter. For those resorts offering sled dog rides, the winter arrival of the dogs is always a fun day. All summer long these dogs have lived with their owner. Now they are back to be with us again. Staff and guests eagerly watch as the dogs are unloaded. Some were here last year and others are new. They all have to be sorted out and each one assigned their own home. The excited yipping of the dogs fills the air as they vie for attention. These dogs truly love to run and pull a sled. They know their favorite time of year is here and no one wants to be left behind when the sleds take off.
The sled dogs arrived today. Our driveway was terribly slippery because the temperatures were so warm. First the plow truck slid slowly into our car. Then I couldn’t get it out and Bruce had to come down to drive it out.
We got 6 inches of snow. Devils Track got 20 inches and Two Harbors got 24 inches. The boys plowed the yard and I finished with the snow blower. Bruce, Betty, Ron and I met with Dennis N. at the Forest Service in the afternoon. Looks like the museum is a go. Took me an hour and 20 minutes to get home because I got behind a tourist car headed for Gunflint and going 25-35 miles per hour. Bruce was giving me 5 more minutes before he came looking.
All the ski trails except South Rim and Magnetic are being groomed for skiing. Still had some wind falls to clean up. Bruce finished the fireplace in #17. It’s nice to have both #16 and #17 done. The carpet was finished in #16. Cabinets and counter tops need to be finished. The cabin is rented on the 21 st. There has been a full moon all week when we could see it. Tonight it’s clear.
At 4:15 a.m. the full moon was lighting up the woods and the temperature was 3 degrees. Today is training trips for the sled dogs. All three sleds are going out at the same time for 20 minute trips during the morning. Lee and Bruce are going to cut our Christmas tree this afternoon. It is going to take a bit longer for the ice to get safe on Gunflint. We got too much snow too soon after freeze-up.
The big lakes are freezing now. It takes them a bit longer to cool down enough to freeze. During a few special years, some lakes will freeze and there will be no snow for a week or so. Four to six inches of blue ice will form without any snow on top. The ice is as smooth as a hockey rink. It’s time to put on the old skates and take off. Skating is a new and exhilarating way to explore these lakes. As the wind hits your face, the miles slip behind you. The water below and ice above are so clear that you can see the rocks on the bottom. Don’t wait a day to skate because snow can come anytime.
The shortest day of the year is here. Full daylight isn’t until 8:00 a.m. and it will be dark at 4:40 p.m. The week also brings the bonus of Christmas. On the Trail where most people came from somewhere else, few have large families. Our neighbors are our families. We take pride in the fact that no one needs to spend Christmas alone. Potlucks and gatherings of friends and neighbors bring holiday cheer to all who live on the Trail. We also take time to remember all who celebrate this time somewhere else. The phone lines merrily ring as we exchange greetings with those far away.
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